When the BB386EVO standard was introduced with the BH Ultralight, we could almost hear the collective sigh around another standard. But on paper, it offers a lot of flexibility in its implementation and does allow frame manufacturers some impressive additional real estate at the bottom bracket shell. While building up our, we started talking to FSA in more depth about the standard and how it can be used on non-386EVO frames. And, for that matter, why you’d even want to use it on a non-386EVO frame. Shown here are two FSA SL-K Light compact 110 BCD cranksets with 175mm arms. The one with black rings and silver spindle is a BB30 crankset (with 36/46 cyclocross rings).

The other is BB386EVO with 34/50 compact rings. FSA gave the EVO spindle a gold hue simply for visual differentiation, making it quick and easy to identify which is which. BB30 and Pressfit BB30 are based on a 68mm wide bottom bracket shell. BB386EVO has an 18.5mm longer spindle designed around an 86.5mm wide BB shell. The full spindle length obviously includes the space for the non-drive crank arm to mount and a wave spring that maintains proper bearing load. From the side, the cranks have a different profile. The EVO cranks (top) are a little more shapely with a bit of a bulge on the trailing edge at the pedal hole.

FSA’s Matt VanEnkevort says it’s really just cosmetic, but gives it a “faster, more aggro look.” So it looks good, but is that all? The EVO crankarms are lighter and stiffer: “There’s less material because it doesn’t have as much curvature, and a straighter arm is going to be stiffer,” VanEnkevort said. “It’s possible, and we haven’t tested this, but it’s possible that an EVO crankset might even be slightly stiffer (than the BB30 setup) in a BB30 frame.” Even with the larger overall set of rings and longer spindle, the EVO driveside parts are only 16g heavier.

FSA: Full Speed. Where to buyAbout External bottom bracket bearing and crank system Watch. Our BB386EVO Videos Installation Instructions. How-To Install An FSA Gossamer Crankset How To Install. And Maintain A BB30 Bottom. I bought a Shimano 105 BB5700 that I'd read would work with the FSA.

Take the 10g savings from the non-drive arm and we’re betting you’d come out just a bit lighter with the same chainring combo on each. Just for fun, there’s a 4g difference between standard (left) and ceramic bearing PFBB30 bottom brackets. IMPLEMENTATION: Question is, if you have a BB30 or PFBB30 frame, is there any reason to consider the wider BB386EVO cranks? Probably not, but: “If you have a BB30 frame, the best solution is a straight up BB30 crankset,” says VanEnkevort. “The EVO advantage really comes when you have a frame with the wider, stiffer bottom bracket or for someone who’s either transferring it between EVO and BB30 frames or planning on upgrading their frame in the future.” Currently,, and offer BB386EVO frames. If you do decide to run an EVO crankset on a BB30/PFBB30 frame, FSA offers simple spacers to fill the gap between the bottom bracket bearings and the crankarms. For the Pressfit bottom brackets, the ones shown above are the same for either standard PFBB30 frames or EVO frames.

The gray plastic shell between bearing cups slides open enough to accommodate the wider EVO frames, too. GOING OFF BRAND: The flip side is fitting a BB386EVO frames with other cranksets. While FSA was one of the original partners in developing the BB386EVO standard, they’re working on adapters for SRAM’s tapered GXP spindles and, eventually, Campagnolo’s UltraTorque cranksets, too. VanEnkevort says the Campy adapters require a bit more engineering to properly incorporate the retention rings necessary thanks to their split spindle design. Shimano has had PFBB86 cranks for a while, but they use their standard 24mm diameter spindles.

All that’s needed to run those cranks on an EVO frame is a reducer between the 30mm ID of the bearings and the 24mm OD of the spindle. FSA’s adapters (above) reduce BB30 down to 24mm ID for use with their MegaExo cranksets.

Despite minute (we’re talking two spots right of the decimal) differences in actual spindle diameters between their MegaExo and Shimano cranks, FSA says these will work. We’ll test this in the near future. (FSA’s MegaExo is their outboard bearing setup) And as a final word about the “new standard”, if you really think about it, BB386EVO is simply taking Shimano’s and Campy’s existing press fit 86mm standard and giving it the popular 30mm diameter spindle. Not exactly groundbreaking when you think of it that way, just sort of a natural evolution.

I'm trying to replace the stock FSA Gossamer BB30 crankset on my Cannondale CAAD10 with a FSA Hollow Carbon Crank BB30 (It's essentially an SL-K). The torque spec is 36 NM for the new crank and I'm using a calibrated torque wrench to install the new crank. As soon as I reach roughly 28 NM of torque on the new crank it stops spinning freely. It still turns smoothly, but there is a significantly more resistance than would be expected. The resistance gets worse the more torque I apply. Any idea what could be wrong? I have installed bearing covers on both sides.

I tried a space and the wave spring washer on the non drive side. I've also tried no spacer but the spring washer on the non drive side. Both yield the same result.Crank is clean and lightly greased on the machined portion of the spindle. It's a nice day and I want to get out! Quote: I'm trying to replace the stock FSA Gossamer BB30 crankset on my Cannondale CAAD10 with a FSA Hollow Carbon Crank BB30 ( It's essentially an SL-K) What does this mean? Where did you source the crank from? Which exact model is it?

It either is or it isnt an SL-K crank. Does the FSA Hollow Carbon Crank have the exact same spindle length as the Gossamer crank? Have you checked the bearing covers are not the wrong way round. Back to front? Have you tried removing all the spacers and the wavy washer?

Have you experimented at all with removing 1 or both the bearings covers and using a plastic washer in their place instead? Are the BB30 bearings fully seated and are they against the circlips inside the shell? Is the carbon BB30 crank spindle definitely not twisted/bent?

Is it new or used? Thank you all for the responses.

I have since regreased but did not notice much of a difference. I've ridden the bike in this condition about 70 miles. It seems to function and the notchiness isn't noticeable when pedaling, but it is definitely noticeable when turning the crank by hand. The cranks on my other bikes spin much more freely and are smooth as silk.

If I turn the crank on the BB30 bike really slowly by hand, I can feel the notchiness as the spindle turns in the bearings. I can also feel the notchiness if I turn the bearings by hand when the crankset is removed. 1) The crankset is labeled 'Hollow Carbon'. I believe it came off a Specialized Diverge and is not labeled with the traditional SLK logo's due to the fact it was OEM for the Specialized. It is in like new condition. The model off the label is CK-OS81. Here's a link to a photo (not my bike): 2) The cover washers over the bearings are installed with the flat surface facing outward and the raised surface inward against the bearing.

3) There is 1 spacer on the non-drive side. It is between the crank arm and the spring washer.

There are no spacers on the drive side. 4) The spring washer appears to be fully compressed. It is clearly not fully compressed until the very last turn of the torque wrench. 5) Bearings are definitely fully seated. Note, I did not remove the bearings or the backing clips. I have however examined their installation to confirm it is correct.

6) The crank spindle is not bent. Am I worried about nothing? If you can feel any notchiness. One or both the bearings could have damage and will need replacing.

That could be contributing the extra resistance when you tighten the crank. More pressure is put on the damaged bearing(s) causing it to bind up.

Or try removing the 1 spacer and wavy washer completely. Nothing bad is going to happen. It will give you a better idea if they are needed or not.

If you remove them, and find there is side-to-side play of the crank. But the bearings still feel notchy. That says there is a problem with the bearings. If instead, the crank spins freely and smoothly. That suggests the wavy washer and/or spacer are causing it to tighten up.

Hi my crankset is creaking worse after doing a few climbs. I read about the recall stuff but my crank arm starts with 10H. So I found the PDF instructions here, with torque specs That 10mm allen bolt on the non drive side is fairly lose, spec is 39-49nm and at first I tightened it to 29nm (meaning it wasn't even at that), still creaks, now at 44nm but doesn't seem to go away. As I tightened it felt like there is grease under the bolt. Should I take it out and reinstall the bolt with grease? So does anyone know what's going on? Pretty sure the noise is coming from the crankset because I noticed a little bit of it at first and got worse after a few rides.

Creaking is worse under load. Do I bother tightening the chainring bolts? Another thing. I got a bag of reflectors and junk but there are a couple of shoft shims that says BB30 on it, are those extras or they forgot this and could this be causing my problem?

PoorCyclist SInce you are using BB30 there is a big chance the noise is comming from one of the zillion pieces that u have in there but what i would do 1st is to change the quick releases in both wheels, new quick releases have plastic parts and as u mentioned u have to grease them. Darn carbon bikes transmit noises like crazy and that u have a sound in the BB does not means it is comming from there. In your case i would guess the noise is coming from the front quick release. Grease the plastic curved piece or just borrow an old metallic one from somebody if you do not have one. Campagnolo steel ones and old shimanos are made of metal, those last forever. All the new stuff has plastic parts and they SUCK!

Why save 5 to 10 grams if you have to buy new ones after a year or two when with a 100% metallic one you can use them for more than 20 years? 20 grams wont do a single difference anyways. PoorCyclist SInce you are using BB30 there is a big chance the noise is comming from one of the zillion pieces that u have in there but what i would do 1st is to change the quick releases in both wheels, new quick releases have plastic parts and as u mentioned u have to grease them. Darn carbon bikes transmit noises like crazy and that u have a sound in the BB does not means it is comming from there. In your case i would guess the noise is coming from the front quick release. Grease the plastic curved piece or just borrow an old metallic one from somebody if you do not have one.

Campagnolo steel ones and old shimanos are made of metal, those last forever. All the new stuff has plastic parts and they SUCK! Why save 5 to 10 grams if you have to buy new ones after a year or two when with a 100% metallic one you can use them for more than 20 years? 20 grams wont do a single difference anyways.Here is the stuff I did no change.

The creaking happens even when pedals coasting off (to rule out cleats / pedals) and I turn sway the wheel left and right it will creak. Seem to quiet down if I take my hands off the handle bar. But some bumps will still make it creak, I am thinking the headset is making noise but it's so hard to pin point where the sound is when riding. It don't make any sound when the bike is not moving I steer and press down on the handle bars etc. - torqued BB30 crank bolt to spec. - drop of lube where each wheel spoke crosses - checked chain ring bolts all tight 10nm, within spec - Put grease on skewer, it had no grease.

- I think headset was slightly loose, tightened about 1/4 turn with stem loosened, feel better but still didn't change the sound. - greased stem bolts all 6, all torqued evenly. They had no grease and just a section of thread had blue loctite. - put grease on drop outs, axle and all QR mating surfaces. I heard they can help sometimes. Found RD pulley 2 tiny screws are barely loose, tightened, screwdriver tight. - greased pedal threads, torqued to FSA spec (look Keo easy pedals new) QR lever leaves an imprint on my palm.

- removed water bottle cages - looked all over the frame can't see any cracks. YES the skewers have plastic on each side. It's worth a shot getting a metal one just as an upgrade.

Wow these are nice ones I read the FSA BB30 is notorious for creaks, I saw some posts are putting locktite and such to make up for the bearing interference to eliminate creaking. But I think it is caused by the BB or the headset, I am going to work with the shop LBS to swap out the wheels and check the headset bearings. Say, if I 'upgrade' to ultegra crank with adapters how much Q factor will be increased?

Do bikes arrive at retailers with the crankset already installed? I found it strange the crank bolt had a torque of almost just half of the spec (it says on the bolt), could riding with the slightly loose crank bolt damaged something inside? I have noticed the creaking from beginning only when climing on lower gears now it's doing all the damn time and over bumps or hard steer. Any help is appraciated. Hi my crankset is creaking worse after doing a few climbs. I read about the recall stuff but my crank arm starts with 10H. Harvard Marketing Simulation Answers here. So I found the PDF instructions here, with torque specs That 10mm allen bolt on the non drive side is fairly lose, spec is 39-49nm and at first I tightened it to 29nm (meaning it wasn't even at that), still creaks, now at 44nm but doesn't seem to go away.

As I tightened it felt like there is grease under the bolt. Should I take it out and reinstall the bolt with grease? So does anyone know what's going on?

Pretty sure the noise is coming from the crankset because I noticed a little bit of it at first and got worse after a few rides. Creaking is worse under load. Do I bother tightening the chainring bolts? Another thing.

I got a bag of reflectors and junk but there are a couple of shoft shims that says BB30 on it, are those extras or they forgot this and could this be causing my problem?Sounds like FSA still has an issue with Gossamer cranks creaking even after all of the 'improvements' made to them. Maybe I'm overreacting, but I had the Gossamer crank 4 years ago on a Felt with the same issue. Can I put carbon assembly paste between the RD hanger and carbon frame?

The 2 very tiny bolts do not hold their torque, although the RD hanger plate is mostly clamped tight by the skewer system, I would like to secure them better, maybe a little loctite on the bolts? I took it to a shop where they tried different wheels, checked everything the shop wants to replace the BB (bearings) but no guarantee. I read alot of people are putting loctite on the bearing outer race and the spline too. The noise isn't bad I just want to figure it out. Creaks doesn't affect me I just want to know there isn't a crack somehwere. I did a search and BB30 and carbon = noisy.